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Make-up Tips!

Make-up Tips! 

Check out some of my make-up tips on the following blog:-

http://Love-and-Wardrobe.BlogSpot.com/2011/02/Exclusive-Interview-Make-up-Tips-from.html

Making Dramatic Skin Colour Changes

Making Dramatic Skin Colour Changes

 Photography: Matthew Pearl a.k.a. Pearly (http://www.PearlyPhotography.com & http://www.MySpace.com/PearlyPhotography)

Model: Rochelle Clark

I achieved the different skin colour effects in the photo above by using black and white eyeshadows (from Nars) applied wet.  To apply them wet I dip large eyeshadow brushes into water (before brushing them over the eyeshadows, and applying them).  This way I achieve a bolder effect than if the eyeshadows had been applied dry.

The skin colour changes can also be achieved using opaque panstick in different colours, applied with either a cosmetic sponge, a foundation brush, a large eyeshadow brush, or your fingers; then setting the panstick in place with loose powder applied on top using a powder puff; and then gently brushing off the excess powder using a powder brush.

You don't just have to stick to colours like black, white and natural skin colours (e.g. ebony, ivory, cocoa, mahogany, alabaster, beige, mocha, sand, honey, chestnut, peach, tan and chocolate).  You can also change the skin colour using unnatural-looking colours (e.g. blue, green, purple, pink, red, yellow, silver and gold).  Make-up For Ever and MAC both make good pansticks and powders for this.

When making dramatic skin colour changes to the face, make sure you extend the colour(s) to the neck, ears and other parts of the body that will be on show, so that there isn't a line where it ends (unless you want to create a mask or contrast effect).

 

You can make people look like they are a different race, paler, darker, like fictional characters, like aliens, or like other animals this way.  So have fun experimenting!

Smoky Eyes

Smoky Eyes

 Photography: Fredrik,

Hair: Alvaro at Nicky Clarke, Mount Street, London.  (http://www.NickyClarke.com),

Clothes: Styled by Janne Gron,

Model: Agyness Deyn at Select (http://www.SelectModel.com)

Photography: Lee Gillies (http://www.LeeGillies.com)

Hair: Magdalena Tucholska (http://www.ModelMayhem.com/706496)

Clothes: Designed by Fannie Schiavoni (http://www.ModelMayhem.com/681437 & http://www.MySpace.com/FannieSchiavoni), shown at a fashion show at London Swatch Alternative Fashion Week, April 2008.

Model: Bernadette Vong (http://www.ModelMayhem.com/375775 & http://www.MySpace.com/Burny_MySpace)
  

Before making up the eyes, cleanse and moisturise the face, and then apply foundation, concealer and powder.  (Make sure that you cover dark under-eye circles with concealer, and then powder the eyelids to set the concealer, and to get the eyeshadow to last longer).

Next apply some loose face powder below the eyes, (so that any dark eyeshadow that falls below the eyes doesn't mark the skin below the eyes, but just accumulates on top of the loose powder under the eyes, and can be brushed away with the powder, using a powder brush, once you've completed the eyeshadows).

Apply white (for fair skin) or ivory (for dark skin) eyeshadow to the brow bones right up to the eyebrows, using a large eyeshadow brush.  The light colour eyeshadow on the brow bones will act as a highlighter.

Then pencil over the eyebrows, using an eyebrow pencil matched to the colour of the eyebrows, to get the eyebrows symmetrical to each other, and then brush the eyebrows in an upwards and outwards direction, using an eyebrow brush.

Using a small thin-tipped eyeshadow brush apply dark grey/dark brown eyeshadow all over the top eyelids, from the upper lash lines up just higher than the socket lines, and then line under the lower lash lines with the same dark eyeshadow, (as in the first photo above). 

Alternatively, apply eyeshadow in a colour such as light grey/black/white/ivory/silver/gold/copper/purple to the top eyelids as far up as the socket lines, using a small thin-tipped eyeshadow brush.  Then apply dark grey/dark brown eyeshadow to and just higher than the socket lines of the top eyelids to contour them, and then line under the lower lash lines with the same dark grey/dark brown eyeshadow, using a small thin-tipped eyeshadow brush, (as in the second photo above).

Using an eyeshadow blending brush, blend the dark eyeshadow, to soften it where it ends on the upper eyelids, so that it gradually blends out into the white/ivory eyeshadow above it.  Blend the dark eyeshadow at the outer corners of the eyes, so that it creates a softened rounded effect around the eyes.

Make sure that the eyeshadow is the same on each eye, so that the eyes look symmetrical.

You don't just have to create smoky eyes using eyeshadows in dark greys or dark browns as I suggested, you can also create them using eyeshadows in other dark colours such as navy, indigo, dark moss green, and midnight purple.

You can highlight the inner corners of the eyes (as in the second photo above), by painting them with a bright colour eyeshadow such as silver/copper/gold/white/ivory/bright blue/bright green/bright purple.  Apply it to the inner corners of the upper and lower eyelids, using a small eyeshadow brush for precision.

If the eyes are large/wide, and you wish to make them appear more mysterious or smouldering, apply black/dark grey/dark brown kohl pencil to the inner rims of the lower eyelids.

If on the other hand the eyes are small, and you wish to make them appear wider, apply white/ice pink kohl pencil to the inner rims of the lower eyelids.

Once you've finished applying the eyeshadows (and kohl pencil), brush the loose powder away from under the eyes (which any fallen flecks of eyeshadow will have accumulated on), using outward brushstrokes, with a large powder brush.

Then apply a few coats of black/brown-black mascara to both top and bottom eyelashes, and then comb through them with an eyelash comb.

Black false eyelashes can be stuck on too, as they go well with this type of make-up.

If you wear pale lipstick with these "smoky eyes", the eyes will dominate your look, which is a good technique for bringing the focus to striking eyes, as well as for creating a grungy look.  For a more glamorous look, team these "smoky eyes" with bright red lipstick (as in the first photo above).

Colourful 1970s Make-up

Colourful 1970s Make-up

Photography: Fredrik Aranda

Hair: Andreas Wild at John Frieda, Aldford Street, London (http://www.JohnFrieda.co.uk)

Clothes: Designed by Yurika Ohara (styled myself)

Model: Lizzy Bowden at Select (http://www.SelectModel.com)

To create this look, start by applying foundation, concealer and powder to a cleansed and moisturised face, (as directed in the blog below called "Getting Flawless Skin").

Apply some loose face powder generously below the eyes before doing the eye make-up, so that any falling flecks of eyeshadow from the eyelids will accumulate on top of the loose face powder, and can be easily brushed away with a powder brush once the eye make-up is completed, without marking the skin below the eyes.

Then using a small eyeshadow brush, apply a wash of light green-gold eyeshadow over the entire top eyelids, as far up as the sockets.

Next using another small eyeshadow brush (this time with a thin tip), apply a deep royal purple eyeshadow to the inner and outer quarters of the top eyelids, as far up as the sockets.

Now using a medium-sized eyeshadow blending brush, blend the deep royal purple with the light green-gold, to soften the edges between the two colours, so that it blends softly from one colour to the next.

Next take a large eyeshadow brush, and apply hot pink eyeshadow or intense hot pink blusher to the brow bones starting from under the eyebrows and extending as far down as the sockets of the upper eyelids.

Now with a small thin-tipped eyeshadow brush, apply deep forest green eyeshadow parallel to and just above the sockets of the upper eyelids, in a curving line, to define the socket lines.  Then slightly blend the edges of where the line of deep forest green eyeshadow ends at the outer corners of the eyes, using an eyeshadow blending brush.

Now brush the loose face powder (which any fallen eyeshadow flecks will have accumulated on top of) away from under the eyes, using a powder brush, using outwards sweeps, so that the under-eye area looks free of any fallen eyeshadow flecks.

Now using a blusher brush, apply intense hot pink blusher or hot pink eyeshadow (joining on to and extending out from where you previously applied it on the brow bones), and sweep it up and over the temples and down along the cheekbones and into the hairline (as shown in the photo above).  Apply the hot pink fairly boldly, and blend the edges of it where it ends at the temples and cheeks, with a blusher brush, so that it gradually blends out.

Define the eyebrows with an eyebrow pencil matched to the colour of the eyebrows, and then brush the eyebrows in an upwards and outwards direction with an eyebrow brush.

If the eyes are large or wide, and you wish to make them appear more mysterious, apply black kohl pencil to the inner rims of the lower eyelids.

If the eyes are small though, don't apply black kohl pencil to the inner rims of the lower eyelids, as it will make the eyes look smaller, but instead apply white/ice pink/green/turquoise/blue/lilac kohl pencil to the inner rims of the lower eyelids.  This will make the eyes appear wider.

Apply a few coats of black mascara to both top and bottom eyelashes, and then comb through the eyelashes with an eyelash comb.

Finally apply hot pink lipstick and/or lip gloss to the lips.

This is a fun and colourful look, so have fun creating it and/or wearing it out!

Cat Eyes

Cat Eyes

Photography: Sohail Anjum (http://www.SohailAnjum.co.uk)

Model: Mona Lisa Adli (http://www.ModelMayhem.com/852879)

 

Photography: Keven Erickson (http://www.Erickson-Photo.com)

Model: Krystyna

Drawing on "cat eyes" is a good way of elongating round eyes, making close-set eyes appear wider-set, and making striking eyes stand out more.  They're a good look at night-time for going out to parties, meals or clubbing.

Before you start, apply foundation, under-eye concealer, and powder, as instructed in the blog further down this page called "Getting Flawless Skin".  This will act as a base for the eyeshadows, and will get them to last longer.  Eyeshadow doesn't last as long on oily eyelids, which is why it's important to powder the eyelids first.

Then apply some loose face powder generously below the eyes and on the tops of the cheeks to catch any falling flecks of eyeshadow, so they don't mark the skin below the eyes.  (This is important, as fallen flecks of dark eyeshadow that have marked the skin or made dirty-looking smears on the skin below the eyes would really ruin the look).

Using eyebrow pencil, define your eyebrows, and then brush them in an upwards and outwards direction.

Use small eyeshadow brushes with thin tips for drawing on "cat eyes", as you will need the accuracy and ability to draw precise fine lines/edges that you can only achieve with brushes with thin tips.

There are several ways of creating "cat eyes":-

One way is to apply a light coloured eyeshadow (i.e. silver/gold/copper/purple/pink/yellow/blue) to the top eyelids as far up as the sockets, and then using a dark colour eyeshadow (i.e. black/midnight blue/midnight purple/brown/grey) contour the socket lines just above the sockets, and line below the lower lash lines with the dark eyeshadow, and then wing the dark eyeshadow out past the outer corners of the eyes (as in the first photo above).  When you wing the dark eyeshadow out past the outer corners of the eyes, form triangle shapes with it, and get the triangles to taper to sharp points at the outer edges (as shown in the photos above).

Another way is to apply dark eyeshadow all over the top eyelids as far up as the sockets, then line the lower lash lines with it, and wing it out past the outer corners of the eyes (as in the second photo above).  Again when you wing the dark eyeshadow out past the outer corners of the eyes, form triangle shapes with it, and get the triangles to taper to sharp points at the outer edges.

You can apply a touch of light/bright colour eyeshadow (in silver/gold/copper/white) to the inner corners of the eyes to highlight the inner corners (as in the second photo above).  Or otherwise you can apply it along the inner halves of the lower lash lines (as in the first photo above).

If you want to jazz the "cat eyes" up more for parties or clubbing you can apply glitter over the top of the eyeshadow to make it sparkle.

If there are any bits of eyeshadow or glitter that have gone astray, cotton buds are brilliant for gently removing them.  (Their thin tips give you the precision required).

If the eyes look small or narrow when you have drawn the "cat eyes" on, and you want them to appear larger, wider or more innocent, apply some white/ice pink kohl pencil to the inner rims of the eyes, to make them look wider.

If on the other hand the eyes look too wide or large, and you want them to appear more mysterious or more sexy, apply dark coloured kohl pencil (black/midnight blue/midnight purple/dark grey/dark brown) to the inner rims of the eyes to make them look less wide.

Then using a powder brush, brush the powder (with any fallen flecks of eyeshadow that may have accumulated on top of it) away from under the eyes and tops of the cheeks.

Apply a few coats of black mascara to top and bottom eyelashes, then comb through the eyelashes with an eyelash comb, and stick on some false eyelashes too if you want.

You can team these eyes with either pale lips (matte or glossy), to create a 1960s look; or with bright colour lips (matte or glossy), to create a funky or gothic look; or with dark lips (matte or glossy), to create an edgy gothic look.

Have fun with these "cat eyes"!

1950s Glamour

1950s Glamour

Photography: Ian

Hair and Accessories: Styled by Lawrence at Toni & Guy, Marylebone High Street, London (http://www.ToniAndGuy.com)

Model: Sarah-Jane

Here are the instructions for how to create a glamorous 1950s movie star look:-

Start with a freshly cleansed and moisturised face.

Apply foundation, concealer and powder (as instructed in a blog I posted further down this page called "Getting Flawless Skin").

Apply eyebrow pencil to the eyebrows using light feathery strokes for a natural-looking effect, and then brush the eyebrows in an upwards and outwards direction using an eyebrow brush.

Apply some loose powder under the eyes and on the tops of the cheeks using a fan brush before doing the eye make-up, (so that any fallen bits of eyeshadow land on the powder and don't mark the skin below the eyes).  Next take a small eyeshadow brush, and brush it over a brightly coloured eyeshadow such as bright blue, bright yellow, bright purple, or bright green.  Then apply the eyeshadow just over the entire upper eyelids, up as far as the socket lines.  After you've applied the eyeshadow, brush the powder away from under the eyes using a powder brush.

Now take a black liquid eyeliner (or otherwise an eyeliner brush which has been dipped into water and then brushed over black eyeshadow), and use it to draw a clean black line along the upper lash lines starting from the inner corners of the upper lash lines and extending right to the outer corners of the upper lash lines.  Then extend the line past the outer corners of the upper lash lines, drawing straight lines past the outer corners of the eyes, which slant upwards at a 45 degree angle, like flicks (as shown in the photo above).  Make the ends of the flick lines taper to sharp points.

Apply a couple of coats of black mascara to top and bottom eyelashes, and then comb through them with an eyelash comb.

Outline the lips with a bright red lip liner pencil, and then paint the lips with a bright red lipstick, and apply lip gloss on top if you like.

And that's how to create 1950s movie star glamour!

Be sure to check back for more make-up instructions and tips!