Tuesday 27 August 2013

1920s/1930s Vamp Make-up

1920s/1930s Vamp Make-up
Photography: James Bell (http://www.BellPhoto.co.uk),
Hair: Nina (http://www.NinasVintageAndRetroHair.com),
Clothes: Styled by Kaz Longe (http://www.KazLonge.co.uk),
Model: Monika (http://www.ModelMayhem.com/364109).
Photography: Stephen Norris (http://www.facebook.com/stephen.norris.1213),
Hair: Cut, coloured and styled by Chris Evans (http://www.facebook.com/chrisee1) at Short Cuts (http://www.ShortCutsHair.co.uk),
Clothes: Model's own,
Model: Stefani Whitehead (http://www.StarNow.co.uk/StefaniWhitehead).

Here are the step-by-step instructions for how to create a 1920s/1930s Vamp look with make-up:-

Start with a freshly cleansed and moisturised face.

Apply foundation (matched to the colour of the skin), concealer and powder (as instructed in my previous blog "Getting Flawless Skin").

The eyebrows should appear like dramatic fine arched lines.  If the eyebrows are too thick/bushy or the wrong shape or too low down to look like this, block out the natural eyebrows hairs.  This can be done by either running a glue stick like Pritt Stick or otherwise a damp bar of soap over the eyebrows.  Apply the glue stick or damp bar soap precisely over the eyebrow hairs a few times until the eyebrow hairs are covered by the residue.  Then once it has dried apply concealer over the top.  You may have to apply more than one layer of glue/soap and then concealer to hide the eyebrows adequately.  Then fix in place by applying loose face powder over the top using a powder puff.  Then gently brush away the excess powder using a powder brush, being careful not to displace the make-up hiding the natural eyebrows.

Apply some extra loose powder below the eyes before applying the eye make-up (to prevent any fallen eyeshadow flecks marking the skin below the eyes).

Apply white eyeshadow to the brow bones from the upper socket lines right up to the eyebrows (or as high up as you intend to draw your eyebrows on if you have blocked the natural eyebrows out first), using a large eyeshadow brush.  This white eyeshadow will act as a highlighter.

Using a black eyebrow pencil or kohl pencil if you're dark haired, or using a dark brown eyebrow pencil or kohl pencil if you're fair haired or redheaded, pencil over the eyebrows to make them look clearly defined, dramatic, fine and arched.  If you have blocked the natural eyebrows out, draw the eyebrows on quite high up in a bold thin arched style (as in the two photos above).

Now using a small eyeshadow brush apply black or dark grey eyeshadow to the upper eyelids from the upper lash lines up to just higher than the socket lines and then below the lower lash lines to completely encircle the eyes.  Make the line of black or dark grey eyeshadow below the lower lash lines about two millimetres thick.  Then blend the black or dark grey eyeshadow up and out on the upper eyelids using an eyeshadow blending brush, to create smoky eyes.  Apply the black or dark grey eyeshadow so that it is darkest at the lash lines and becomes gradually lighter as it blends out into the white eyeshadow above it (as in the photos above).  (See my previous blog called "Smoky Eyes" for more advice on the eyeshadow application).

Use cotton buds to gently lift off any flecks of eyeshadow that have gone astray, and use cotton buds to gently soften the line of black or dark grey eyeshadow below the lower lash lines.

Make sure the eye make-up looks the same/symmetrical on both eyes.  Apply the make-up on each eye as a mirror image of the other eye.

To make the eyes look more dramatic you can apply black kohl pencil around the eyes on both the upper lash lines and below the lower lash lines.  (This step is optional).

Curl the upper eyelashes with an eyelash curler if you like.  Apply two or three coats of mascara to the upper eyelashes and a single coat of mascara to the lower eyelashes.  Then comb through the eyelashes using an eyelash comb to remove any clumps of mascara and separate the eyelashes.

Now brush the loose face powder away from below the eyes using a powder brush, using a gentle outward motion under each eye, but starting lower than the line of black or dark grey eyeshadow below the lower lash lines, so as not to smudge it.

If you like you can sculpt your cheekbones to give them better definition (as in the first photo above).  Use a light brown or gold blusher on fair skin, use bronze or mid brown blusher or bronzing powder on olive skin, or use dark brown blusher/shader on black skin.  Apply along the undersides of the cheekbones subtly starting from below the outsides of the eyes and extending right into the hairline, using a blusher brush.  Then blend slightly using the blusher brush to soften the effect.

Apply bright blood red lipstick (as in the second photo above) or otherwise deep shades of lipstick such as burgundy or deep plum (as in the first photo above).  Apply it accurately using a lip brush.  If any lipstick gets out of line use cotton buds to gently wipe it away.

Paint the nails in bright blood red or deep vampy shades such as burgundy or deep plum.

This is a classic dramatic look which goes well with lots of outfits, but particularly well with evening dresses.  Have fun wearing it out in the evening or at night!

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